Going South.....way South


Known as the southernmost city of the United States, just 90 miles north of Cuba, Key West abounds with both natural and man made wonders. Vistas are dominated by the blue green waters of the Atlantic to the south and the Gulf of Mexico to the north along with nodding palms, whispering pines, and olive colored mangroves. Key West is unbelievably close to the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico.

Having a unique and sometimes balmy atmosphere, Key West is the closest thing to a Caribbean island that we Americans will find in the United States. Key West has an average daytime temerature of 80 degrees with typically dry weather in the winter and rain showers in the summer. ( The rain showers can be unpredictable but move through rather quickly.) The climate and the residents, known as Conchs (pronounced conks), make this a very laid back town. Key West, referred to as the Conch Republic, is an island surrounded by emerald green seas, complete with subtropical trees and plants. Include in this description quaint, palm studded streets, historic gingerbread mansions built a century ago, and the relaxed Conch citizenry. And, of course, don't forget the tourists.

Exploring Key West

Unlike many other beach type destinations, Key West offers more than the tanning, sailing, fishing, diving, snorkeling, shopping, bar hopping and other related beach activities. Key West has spanned American history unlike any other town in the U.S. and today showcases many historical sites in their original form, in addition to the creation of several museums . Among the many sites to see, put on your list the Hemingway House, the Audubon House and Gardens, the Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Society, the Wreckers' Museum, Fort Zachery Taylor State Historic Site, the East and West Martello Towers, and the Key West Aquarium. Also of interest are the unique conch houses in the old town of Key West in the blocks between Caroline and Angela, and Duval and Francis streets. (More information on these homes can be obtained from the Hospitality House in Mallory Square.) If you aren't, however, into sightseeing, you must at least visit the Southernmost Point, Mallory Square, and of course, the Hemingway House. (And not necessarily in that order.)

It is due to Ernest Hemingway that this town, with a permanent population of approximately 25,000, has become the home to many contemporary literary greats.(such as Tennessee Williams) The house and gardens at 907 Whitehead Street are still "home" to one of the United States' most renowned writers. "Papa" moved to Key West in 1931 with his second wife Pauline and their two sons, Patrick and Gregory. Residing here for approximately 20 years, Hemingway wrote "For Whom the Bell Tolls", "Green Hills of Africa", "A Farewell to Arms", "The Fifth Column", and "Snows of Kilimanjaro."

Although the author sold the house shortly before his death in 1961, the house and its furnishings have been kept intact, as if Hemingway were about to return from a Key's fishing trip or perhaps from a drink or two at his favorite watering holes.

The Hemingway home, now a registered national historic landmark, was built in Spanish Colonial style of native rock hewn from the grounds. Hemingway and his wife furnished it with rugs, tiles, chandeliers, and furniture brought by the couple from all over the world.

One of the most fascinating stories about the home involves the swimming pool, the first in Key West. Mrs. Hemingway built it in the late 1930's, during one of the writer's trips abroad. When he learned that the pool cost $20,000, Hemingway took a penny from his pocket and tossed it to the ground. "Here, take the last penny I've got", he said, shocked at the pool's price. Pauline had the penny imbedded in cement at the head of the pool, where visitors can see it today.

Two resounding proofs demonstrate the home is still Hemingway's. One is the shrubs that the nature loving writer planted and the other is the multitude of six toed cats which roam the place actual descendants of Hemingway's own cats. The Hemingway House Museum is open daily 9am to 5pm. Admission is $6 for adults and $1.50 for children.

If you've really enjoyed investigating Hemingway's house and you'd like to look around Old Town Key West some more, you don't have to go far. (Or if you're bored out of your senses, you can always hit the beach or poolside, go on a dive trip, fish, or shop.) Since the island is relatively small, all of these things are easy to find, and you can get back to sightseeing on a another day (maybe a rainy day). Back to the museums! Anyway, across the street (your on Whitehead Street), is the remarkable Lighthouse Military Museum, where visitors may climb the top of the historic light, peer through a bona fide submarine periscope, and ramble through about a half acre of military hardware. On the same street, near the Gulf waterfront, stands stately Audubon House (205 Whitehead St. @ Greene St.). It is a meticulously restored mansion of 1812 and was the home of an early sea captain and master wrecker, Captain John Geiger. It's said that John James Audubon stayed there while painting his noted works depicting wildlife of the Florida Keys. One of the artist's few intact works from his double "Elephant" folios is on view among the house's antique treasures. Open daily from 9:30am to 5pm, admission is $5 for adults and $1 for children (under 6 free).

Two fascinating smaller museums are nearby. One , the Oldest House in Key West (322 Duval St), is a small, typical residence circa 1826 and now is home to The Wreckers Museum. This museum is home to wrecking history and displays ship models, paintings, and maritime artifacts. The Wreckers Museum is open from 10am until 4pm. Admission is $2 for adults and 50 cents for children. The other museum is East Martello Tower Museum, located right out in front of Key West International Airport. The rambling massive fort built prior to the American Civil War to protect the waters of the nation's southernmost boundary has been lovingly restored. It is now a museum of Key's historical past of wrecking, pirates, sponging, and cigar making, offering visitors a quaint look back into time. Part of the building serves as an art gallery where local artists' works are exhibited. Colorful, primitive wood carvings and paintings of native Key West artist Mario Sanchez are prominently displayed.

The newest unlikely tribute to antiquity is Key West's Little White House, which is included within the 44 acre Truman Annex and former naval base. President Harry S. Truman frequented this estate first in November 1946, with visits every few months throughout his presidency. You can wander through the newly restored Little White House Museum and Gardens daily, which are located one block up Caroline St. and through the Presidential Gates. Today, this annex is under renovation and includes a proposed marina, yacht club, beach, restaurants, shops, luxury resort condos, and homes. It's great for strolling and enjoying the subtropical park like setting of the grounds.

And just when you think you have seen everything, there's always Garden Key, located 75 miles west of Key West in the Dry Tortugas. A visit to historic Fort Jefferson is a great day trip, since half the fun is getting there. In case you forgot to bring the pontoons, don't fret because Chalk International Airlines has daily scenic excursions out to the fort. There office is at One Duval St. on the dock at the Pier House right in front of the Key West harbor. Daily flights in a twin Grumman Mallard seaplane (17 passenger) will run $139 roundtrip (Ouch!) for adults, $95 for children 7 to 11, and $70 for children 2 to 6. Trips depart daily at 9:25am and return to Key West about 2pm. Chalk's recommends making reservations a few days in advance and can be reached at 1 800 4 CHALKS. They provide free snorkeling equipment and drinks. There's also a Cessna Turbo 206 amphibian that makes daily trips from Key West Int'l Airport for $109 per person. Among touring the fort, enjoy the sandy beaches, snorkeling, and birdwatching. And don't forget to pack a picnic lunch! (There's no food service on the island.)

Your Flightplan to (EYW)

Now that we've got you all excited about all the interesting things to see at this tropical paradise, let's back track a little . A journey to Key West is an adventure. And it all begins as the Florida mainland, just south of Homestead is left behind and approximately 180 miles of the Florida Keys lie ahead. And what a spectacular view there is. Keeping a weary eye out for the pearly cumulus clouds, follow the coral and limestone islands on your chart by identifying the towns of Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, and then finally Key West.( Marathon has the only other airport in the Keys with a 5,008 foot long by 100 foot wide asphalt grooved runway 7/25. Approach control is Miami radio at 122.6. UNICOM frequency is 122.8) Approximately 35 nm west southwest of Marathon, look to find Key West International Airport (EYW), about 2 miles east of downtown.( Just a note on approaching EYW, keep an eye out for white weather or observation balloons operated by the Navy. In particular, there is an unlit balloon cable 17 miles northeast of the airport at approximately elevation 14,000.) Anyway, the "International" part comes from when sea planes used to leave here enroute to Cuba. EYW consists of a single 4,800 by 100 foot asphalt grooved runway at elevation 4, designated 9/27, and is surrounded by salt ponds to the north and south. Lights are operational from 10pm to 7am and during IFR conditions. In addition, look for a beacon from dusk to dawn, and during IFR conditions. Runway 9 has a right traffic pattern, unless the tower directs you otherwise. For more information, see the Key West listing in AOPA's Aviation USA. The FBO at Key West is Island City Flying Service Enterprise. They can be reached at (305) 296 5422. Their hours are 8am to 7pm seven days a week and just like at Knox County, Maine, no parking fees, except for overnight. The overnight rates are $7 and $10 for a single and twin, respectively. Fuel rates, quoted in September '93, were $2.07 cash and $2.12 credit for 100LL. Autogas and 80LL are not available. If per chance aircraft repair services are needed, (we hope not) an A&P mechanic is available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm.

Now that your flightplan is closed and your craft is tied down, proceed to the terminal building to contact your hotel or inn, or make arrangements for your rental car pick up. Two rental car agencies right on the field are Avis and Dollar. Once again, Travel Pilot recommends that you make reservations as early as possible (a few months in advance if you can) because rates and availability are subject to change. (How do you like that phrase?) Also, Travel Pilot did some shopping around and found that if you arrive at Key West between 8am and 4:30pm, you may be able to secure cheaper car rental rates than what is offered at Avis and Dollar, if you don't mind being shuttled to a local hotel or rental car location outside of the airport. In any case, if you're in no hurry, a phone call from one of the courtesy phones inside the terminal will alert your chosen rental agency that you have arrived and are ready to pick up your vehicle. For your information, Travel Pilot magazine inquired at Avis, Dollar, Alamo, located at the Ramada Inn about 3 miles from the airport and Budget, located at the Sears Town about 4 miles from the airport. For comparison purposes, a summary of the rates are shown below: The categories listed for daily and weekly(wkly) rentals are subcompact, compact, midsize, luxury, and convertible.) See the table on this page.

If you're as lucky as Travel Pilot was, you'll order a subcompact and pickup a convertible at no extra charge. ( O.K., we'll admit, it was a GEO METRO convertible, but nonetheless, a convertible. If you've got the extra cash, we highly recommend the convertible. Avis rents a Chrysler LaBaron convertible and Budget rents a MUSTANG, if you're in that cruisin' mood. Whatever rental car you end up with, don't forget to add in the 7 percent state tax and $2.05 per day state road tax. If a child restraint seat is needed, make the request with your reservation and expect to pay an average of $4.50 per day or an average weekly rate of $30. Of the agencies listed above, Alamo, Avis, Budget, and Dollar provide child restraint seats. Travel Pilot doesn't particularly endorse any of the listed agencies. We selected them on a random basis, for comparison of rates. The toll free numbers for other agencies with an office located in Key West along with the four listed are as follows so that you too can shop around for the car and rate of your choice.

Alamo:

1 800 952 9200

Avis:

1 800 331 1212

Budget:

1 800 527 0700

Dollar:

1 800 800 4000

Hertz:

1 800 654 3131

National:

1 800 227 7368

Thrifty:

1 800 367 2277

Value:

1 800 327 2501

Just a few things to remember when driving in Florida: 1)seat belts are required 2) right on red is allowed 3) headlights on during rain

Island Accommodations

There are at least 50 hotel/motels, 60 bed & breakfasts, and numerous condos and homes for rent in Key West. As this list is too extensive for Travel Pilot to cover, we recommend that as a part of your trip planning, you contact the Florida Keys & Key West Visitors Bureau toll free at 1 800 FLA KEYS. Or write to them at P.O. Box 1147, Key West, FL 33041. They'll send you various brochures on accommodations. You can also call the Key West Reservation Service at 1 800 327 4831.( Just remember, they may not have your interests at heart.) Review the brochures carefully, then call and ask questions and verify prices. For rental info., contact Accommodations Key West (Greg O'Berry, Inc. Real Estate) at 1 800 654 2781 or (305) 294 6637

We do offer a few comments/suggestions on where to stay in Key West. First of all, remember that Key West is surrounded by the Gulf along the north and the Atlantic along the south. Many chain hotels are located on the Gulf side with little or no beach and rooms without a water view. The accommodations on the Atlantic side are slim and besides that, don't really have great beaches anyway, unless of course, they're man made beaches. ( The hotels/resorts do a great job of landscaping, however.) Because of the coral reefs, most of the beaches in Key West have imported sand. (Bring your booties, because the walk out into the aqua water, although quite beautiful, is somewhat painful without protective footwear.) So, if you want to stay oceanfront, look into making reservations at the Sheraton Suites (just opened June '93), Marriott's Casa Marina Resort, or the Reach Resort. The Best Western Key Ambassador (free complimentary breakfast,1 800 432 4315), located on the southwest side of the airport, also sports an "oceanfront" location in that it overlooks the Atlantic from the other side of South Roosevelt Blvd. Another option is the Holiday Inn Beachside, although not oceanfront, it has Gulf front views and a man made beach for tanning and watersports. Another Gulf front location in the heart of town, that is a little more intimate, is the Hyatt Key West (1 800 233 1234), located on the corner of Front & Simonton Streets. Two other locations that are directly oceanfront\Gulf front, are worth checking out if money isn't a problem. These two pricey resorts (in suite jacuzzis whew!) are the Ocean Key House (1 800 328 9815) and Pier House(1 800 327 8340). Both are located at One Duval St, in downtown Key West. If you like a lot of action, this is the place to stay, otherwise staying on the outskirts of downtown is a little quieter.

The Marriott provides complimentary shuttle service between the airport, as well as featuring an 1,100 foot beach, a private pier and water sports facility, tennis courts and pro shop, health club, massage clinic, access to golf, and a restaurant and pavilion on the beach. At the Holiday Inn Beachside, room choices include oceanfront with private balcony (Gulf front), poolside, regular (no view), or their mini suite, which includes a private sitting area and balcony. These rates, shown below, are daily room rates based on arriving the 10th of each month: (Note: Holiday rates will be higher and some blackout periods may apply.) See table this page. Again, when staying at the Holiday Inn Beachside all you need to do is show your private pilot's license and mention Travel Pilot. Some of the services offered by the Holiday Inn include complimentary shuttle service to and from the airport, heated pool & jacuzzi, private poolside bar, restaurant, tennis courts, private pier and watersports center, and Thrifty Car Rentals on site. If you have any questions or concerns at either hotel, ask for George Abreu at the Holiday Inn Beachside (305) 294 2571 or Krishna "Monica" Estenoz at the Marriott (305) 296 3535. Again Travel Pilot recommends that reservations be made well before arrival.

If you've looking for a bed & breakfast, inquire at the Curry Mansion Inn (305) 294 5349, owned by Al and Edith Amsterdam. The Curry Mansion, located at 511 Caroline St., with 15 rooms decorated in wicker and antiques, offer European breakfasts, daily cocktail parties, pool, and access to the private Pier House beach. This is a great romantic get away. Also, a group of Inns to check out is the Henley Collection, which consists of mix of four inns ranging from quaint and moderate to the ultimate in luxury. Call The Henley Collection at 1 800 545 3907 for brochures, descriptions, and rates. The third group of inns we recommend you look into is known as Authors of Key West (305) 294 7381. Located along White St. at Petronia, Authors is a group of nine rooms and cottages, each named after a famous Key West author. For example, the "Tennessee Williams" and "Ernest Hemingway are both conch cottages, with upstairs rooms designated the "Thorton Wilder", the "Jimmy Kirkwood", the "Harry Truman", and the "John James Audubon". The three ground floor rooms are poolside, and are called the "Mc Cullers", the "Herily",and the "Hellman" rooms.

Whatever accommodations are chosen, make sure to get complete descriptions and brochures during the pre planning phase of your trip, so that all of your expectations are met.

Dining and Night Life

You'll have to spend a month here to eat at all of the restaurants. Some are in hotels, some in old Conch Houses, and some are just there. Dress is always informal. Of the many dining and nightlife spots, be sure to check out the following: 1) Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville, 500 Duval

2) Sloppy Joe's, Greene and Duval

3) Louie's Backyard, 700 Waddell St

4) Clancy's Gourmet Garden of Key West, 6 Charles St off Duval

5) Pepe's Cafe and Steak House, 806 Caroline

6) Pier House Restaurant

7) Half Shell Raw Bar, 1405 Duval

8) Kelly's Caribbean Bar, Grill & Brewery, Whitehead & Caroline (Aviation Museum and original home of Pan Am)

9) Dockside Grill and Raw Bar, Mallory Dock

10) La Te Da, 1125 Duval

Key West: A Fishing Paradise

In Key West, sportfishing in a variety of modes is available almost every day of the year with the lure of the Atlantic Ocean reefs and Gulfstream big game angling, as well as fishing in the Gulf of Mexico and backwaters. One of Florida's largest fishing fleets of sportfishing boats is available at Key West charter boat docks, which offer deep sea gamefishing as well as party boats.

The traditional fine weather associated with the Keys favors angling, and rarely does foul weather interfere with fishing excursions. A day of deep sea fishing in Keys waters is a memorable experience, with even the novice fisherman afforded the opportunity to fight a big marlin or sailfish. Less ambitious anglers may find a challenge in the natural coral reefs and many shipwrecks in the waters near Key West, which are noted for their productive fishing.

The Key West sportfishing fleet offers some 60 deep sea charter boats, 15 flat fishing skiffs, and two large party fishing boats which provide a variety of angling for the entire family during half or full day trips. Charter boats usually cater to parties of four to six persons with rates averaging $500 per day, excluding lunch. Light tackle boats may accommodate one or two fishermen at lower rates. Party boat tariffs average $30 per person for a full day trip, including tackle.

The most sought after species for deep sea anglers are blue and white marlin, sailfish, wahoo, dolphin, backfin tuna, kingfish, barracuda, and shark. Reef or wreck fishermen may find a real fight in fishing for amberjack, large grouper and snapper, as well as other reef species generally taken while bottom fishing. The smaller, light tackle craft specialize in shallow water action and "backcountry" angling for such prizes as bonefish, tarpoon, and permit.

Just a note, however, before a line gets dropped in the water, contact the Florida Department of Natural Resources and the Florida Marine Patrol to get a complete listing of fishing regulations. There are various laws concerning the protection of marine life (manatees, whales, dolphin, sea turtles, spiny lobster, queen conchs, and all types of coral) in the Keys which are taken very seriously. For more information on fishing regulations, call (305) 289 2320.

Beachcombers Disappointment is a Snorklers Heaven

Let's take a minute to talk about the beaches. Whatever you do, don't picture the Outer Banks, Cancun, or the beaches of Sarasota. Remember that the beaches in Key West along the Atlantic are not known for their great expanse or fineness. Due to the proximity of the coral reef off the coast, the beach is a little coarse on the feet and is not a wide expanse of sand. But this doesn't mean that you won't find beaches for sunbathing. Smathers Beach, Higgs Beach, South Beach, and the beach at Fort Taylor are your options. If these don't satisfy the sand between the toes, then jump in the convertible Mustang and head north on Route 1 to Bahia Honda State Park. It's about a 30 minute drive, and snorkeling is terrific.

And if diving is the ultimate goal of this trip (besides flying, of course), then be prepared to experience the plentiful marine and coral life of the Keys. Don't forget your "C" card and always remember to leave at least 12 hours (24 hours, if possible) between your dive and any time you plan to fly. Of the several dive shops in Key West, Capt. Billy's Key West Diver, Inc, (1 800 87DIVER) and Captain's Corner (1 800 328 9815) provide regular wreck and reef trips, along with spear and lobster fishing dives along Key West. But if you really want to experience the beauty of a well developed coral reef with tons of tropical fish and plant life, then Travel Pilot recommends you dive the Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary. It is one of six coastal sites designated a National Marine Sanctuary by the National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration. Several dive shops make trips out to the reef, but the Looe Key Reef Resort and Dive Center (5 star P.A.D.I. certified) is the closest dive shop to the sanctuary. They are located at Mile Marker 27.5 in Looe Key (1 800 942 5397). Offering several different package deals, a two tank dive will run approximately $35. Tanks and equipment are extra and may be rented there as well.

Sunset Celebrations in Key West

Make sure that before Key West is left in the sunset for the journey home, that you don't miss the festivities at Mallory Square prior to and during sunset. Every evening people gather to capture the splendor of the sun setting over the water. And many entertainers such as jugglers, dancers, artisans, and a bagpiper are on hand to amuse you. During November, December, and January, make sure that you arrive at Mallory Square by 5:30 so as not to miss the sunset.

Beneath the tropical, cloud covered skies of the Florida Keys, discover Key West and savor the pleasures of America's Caribbean. If you go, Travel Pilot would like to hear about your trip. Write to us about your adventure!



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